Preliminary topo for Kamberget (Moldtun, Snillfjord), updated 2 November 2013


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Access: Hike or bike to Trondheim, in Norway, and show up at the local climbing gym to find someone to climb with. Suggest to take his/her car to this new, beautiful crag you've read about on some obscure website. Bring the above map and use common sense to drive from A to B. If you see any nice cliffs on the way out, especially in the last half of the drive, try to stay on the road anyway. Some of those cliffs are developed and available in the new 2011 guidebook "Trønder Rock". Visit them next week.
If you need a nice, printable PDF version of this web page, I didn't bother to make it since you should get the guidebook instead. It's cheap, and nice! ;) You may still visit this web topo, to check for updates in the route development.

BTW, some help is needed in the route development, and if you are interested, contact Edvard Aasen. 125 stainless steel glue-in bolts have been donated by the Norwegian Climbing Association so don't worry about becoming ruined by helping out. There's still a potential for new routes of high quality!

Parking: Park at the right-turn where a trail goes towards two small sea houses (from the old times). Remember that the road must still be open for cars with a wide trailer (tractor, etc), and the trail down towards the sea should also not be blocked. There's more space for parking up the road. Walk past the sea houses and follow a small trail up right before the last house. After about 3 minutes of walking you will reach the base of the cliff; the camp site, the fireplace and the fishing spot. ENJOY!
...and please carry all your garbage back to the car.

Weather forecast: Available in English at Yr.no

Route
no.
Route
name
Norw.FrenchFirst
ascender
YearLength (meters)TypeSymbol?Stars?
(0-3)
Route information
grade
0Ca 5-Ca 5aOpen project30TradIn a huge dihedral.
0bJerry of the Day5+5cMaja Drøyli & Tore Helgedagsrud30TradStarts on the right side of 0 (the huge dihedral), then it crosses over and follows the right crack on the wall to the left (visible in the image below).
1Lost55bEdvard Aasen201130TradSwapping between crack and arete (some choices to be done). Some loose rocks and vegetation can be enjoyed. Remember long slings. May finish through route 2 (ca. 6-/6a).
2Tårer i havet7-6b+Edvard Aasen201424Sport18m to first anchor, 24m to the top anchor. Hard start.
3Offside7-6b+Jo Husebye201135TradTechnical1Demanding protection (a little runout) in the first half. No known repetitions. May need more route cleaning.
4Farvel til nerdene55bEdvard Aasen200930TradSeveral solutions to a big ledge, including a direct fingercrack, 6-/6a. Then follow a thin crack (OK protected) in the right part of an overhang, until a small ledge. The route follows an obvious crack in a huge dihedral to the top.
5Via Maurtua44bEdvard Aasen200930TradFollows the right side of a giant rock with pyramide shape. Needs more cleaning.
6Havfruen5-5aEdvard Aasen & Morten Bøvre201615 + 30SportNice route. Crux at the beginning, the rock is better than it looks like. 15m to the anchor and 30m further to a tree.
7No name4-4aOndrej Novak201125TradNote: It has been painted wrong in the image; it should traverste onto the first ledge and further along the (grassy) system of ledges until the top wall.
8Laksetrappa6+6a+/6bEdvard Aasen201315SportTechnicalTechnical route. Easier (6?) for tall people. Bolted anchor.
9Pies de Mar6-6aEdvard Aasen201115SportStart from a block. Har start/traverse. Follow the right side in the beginning, it's fine although the footholds are usually wet.
9bSjøstjerner7-6b+David Koch & Edvard Aasen2014SportHard for short people. Common anchor with 9 and 10.
10Storsteinbiten66bEdvard Aasen201015SportTechnical2Two options near the topout.
11Aal in All55bEdvard Aasen200920TradNot well protected in the first part. Small offset nuts are recommended. Bolted anchor, may continue to the top wall.
12Pigghåtraversen5+5cEdvard Aasen201615TradDifficult protection on the traverse, may get one bolt in the future. Bolted anchor.
12bReturn of Gjedda5+5cMatthew Skinner201615TradNice crack on the right side of route 12. Follows this crack until a small ledge where the crack dies out. Place a good wallnut #1 in front of your face. Traverse a little left until a good handhold, thereafter a small runout. Alternatively, go right from the ledge and straight up, grade 4+ and well-protected.
13Påfyll4+4cAnders Fougner & Edvard Aasen201020 + 20Trad2 pitches. Bring enough gear, if not you will need "Påfyll". A little challenging to find good protection at the crux.
13bTorsken kommer nå5-5aEdvard Aasen201320TradDihedral. Small cams are useful. Bolted anchor.
13cOppkast5 (+)5b/5cEdvard Aasen201320Trad1Nice and steep. Challenging to find good protection at the crux. Same anchor as 13b or bolted anchor on the right.
14Supraspinatus7-6b+Edvard Aasen201025MixTechnical1Starts in a well-protected crack, finishing on a bolted crux, 2 bolts (a 3rd one will be placed), bolted anchor. May be topped out if wanted. Originally 6+, was upgraded to 7- and may still be a hard. Has been climbed on trad, this is not recommended.
14bCa 7Ca 6cClosed project20Mix2 triplex bolts without ring at the anchor. When cleaning, use the anchor at the top. Has been climbed on toprope so far.
Contact Edvard Aasen if you want to work on this route.
15Ca 7-Ca 6b+Closed project20MixNot opened due to dubious rock quality.
16Return to forever6-6a+Matthieu Desbief201120TradUncertain grade. Beware of loose rock; holds may fall off. The route merges with nr 17 near the top (not as painted in the image).
17Roquevaire forever5+5cMatthieu Desbief201020Trad1Rappel anchor at the top.
18Homer canary44bRolv Marius Faleide200920Trad
19New moon rising5-5aStefan Blankvoort200920Trad
20Ca 5Ca 5bClosed project20SportHas been climbed on toprope so far.
21Fotografbalkongen4+4cAnders Fougner201020SportThe route contains several nice ledges, well suited for photographing people on other routes. Some people struggle at the crux, exposed due to the ledge below.
22Albatross6-6aEdvard Aasen201020Sport2
23Bella Budweisser Originale76cAndrea Christofaro201520Sport
24Faber Castell5-5aErlend Ilstad200920Trad2Very well protected.
25Idyll55bEdvard Aasen200920Trad2Idyllic and well protected.
26Freedom barCa 7-6b+Edvard Aasen201520SportTough for short people. Might be 6+ if you step left into "Idyll" in the middle part.
27Gorillas in the Mist7+Ca 7aDylan Rick Hislop & Simon Ross Stenger201720Sport
28Ride ranke6+6bEdvard Aasen201118SportTechnical
29Posterrisset5+5cTorbjørn Aass 201010Trad1Photogenic route.
30Erasmusparty5+5cTorbjørn Aass201010Sport
31Jokkastikk4-4aTorbjørn Aass201010Trad






Some action shots:

12 August 2012, Wiley Bogren climbing "Pies de Mar" (6-, sport)
26 June 2011, Jo Husebye on the FA of "Offside" (7-, trad) 2 October 2010, Pavla Udrzalova climbing "Albatross" (6-, sport)
26 September 2010, Matthieu Desbief on the FA of "Roquevaire forever" (5+, trad)